Water Damage? Mold Concerns?
Learn What to do - and when to get help
Our education center is designed to help homeowners, DIYers, and professionals understand water damage, drying, and restoration equipment.
DIY VS PROFESSIONAL GUIDANCE
Not every water damage situation requires professional restoration — but not every situation is safe to handle on your own. This section is designed to help you understand when DIY solutions make sense and when calling a professional is the smarter choice.
When is Demo Needed - And When to Call a Professional
Not sure if you should tackle demolition yourself or call a professional? This guide helps you know when DIY demo is safe for small, non-structural areas — and when it’s better to hire an expert to avoid hidden damage, safety risks, or costly mistakes.
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DIY Water Damage: What You Can Handle and What You Can’t
DIY Water Damage: What You Can Handle and What You Can’t Water damage can be stressful, but knowing your limits is key to preventing bigger problems. Here’s a simple guide to help you decide what you can safely handle yourself and when it’s best to call a professional. What You Can Handle Small, Localized Water Damage Examples: a minor kitchen sink leak, a small appliance overflow, or a minor bathroom flood (less than 5 gallons). Clean water from supply lines (like faucets or appliances). Most gray water situations (dishwasher leaks, washing machine leaks, or small toilet overflows without feces) can usually be handled safely if the affected area is small. Limited area (less than 10 sq ft) that can be dried with fans, dehumidifiers, or a wet/dry vacuum. DIY Steps Stop the water source immediately. Remove standing water with a wet/dry vacuum. Dry affected areas with fans and dehumidifiers. If you have one, check moisture levels with a moisture meter. Wipe down surfaces and disinfect with a mild cleaner to prevent mold growth. Tip: Always wear gloves, and if dealing with gray water, also wear a mask to avoid exposure to bacteria. When to Call a Professional Water that’s contaminated (sewage, floodwater, or anything unsafe to touch). Large areas (over 100 sq ft or multiple rooms). Porous materials that are deeply soaked, like carpet padding, insulation, or drywall. Hidden water behind walls, ceilings, or under floors. Situations where moisture has been sitting too long and mold may start to grow. Why Professionals Are Helpful They have the right tools to thoroughly dry everything, including hidden areas. They prevent long-term damage like warped floors, rotten wood, or mold. They know how to handle contaminated water safely. Bottom Line For small, clean water leaks and most minor gray water leaks, you can often handle the cleanup yourself as long as you act quickly and dry everything completely. For contaminated water, large areas, or hidden damage, it’s safer to call a professional to make sure the problem is fully resolved and won’t come back.
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How To Series
Sometimes, the best way to learn is by doing. Our How To series gives step-by-step guidance on common water damage, drying, and restoration tasks — from using equipment properly to safely handling minor leaks or cleanup projects.
These articles are designed to help you tackle problems confidently, avoid mistakes, and understand the “why” behind each step, so you can get results safely and efficiently.
How to Remove Standing Water Safely
Removing standing water quickly is the first step to protecting your home from water damage, mold, and odors. Learn safe, DIY-friendly methods to get water out, dry affected areas, and prevent further damage.
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How to Use Air Movers & Dehumidifiers
Step by Step guide for effective drying. When used together, air movers and dehumidifiers are one of the most effective ways to dry water-damaged areas. Air movers speed up evaporation, while dehumidifiers remove moisture from the air so drying can continue efficiently.
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Air QUALITY & SAFETY
Water damage and restoration can affect more than what you see — the air in your home can carry mold spores, dust, and other contaminants. This series helps you understand the risks, protect your indoor air, and know when extra equipment or professional guidance is needed.
Understanding Airborne Mold Spores After Water Damage
Mold isn’t always visible — tiny airborne spores can linger after water damage and affect your home’s air quality. Learn how mold spreads, why it matters for your health, and when to tackle it yourself versus calling a professional.
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Air Quality After Water Damage: When an Air Scrubber Helps
Air Quality After Water Damage: When an Air Scrubber Helps How to Know If One Is Right for Your Situation After water damage, cleanup, or demolition, most people focus on what they can see — wet floors, torn-out materials, or debris. What often gets overlooked is what’s floating in the air. That’s where an air scrubber becomes important. What an Air Scrubber Does An air scrubber is a portable filtration system that removes airborne particles from an enclosed space. Depending on the filters used, it can capture: Dust and debris Mold spores Bacteria Allergens Odors (with carbon filtration) Air scrubbers are designed for restoration and construction environments, where air quality can quickly decline. Situations Where an Air Scrubber Is Recommended You should consider using an air scrubber if: You smell musty or mold-like odors Mold is visible or suspected Wet or damaged materials are being removed The water source was contaminated Someone in the home has asthma, allergies, or sensitivities Running an air scrubber during these situations helps reduce airborne particles and prevents contaminants from spreading to unaffected areas. When an Air Scrubber May Not Be Necessary An air scrubber may not be needed if: The water damage was very small and dried quickly No materials were disturbed or removed There are no odors or signs of mold Drying was limited to surface moisture only Final Thought If drying equipment handles the water, an air scrubber handles the air. It’s a smart layer of protection when air quality is a concern — especially during drying, cleanup, or demolition.
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Water Damage & Restoration Basics
Understanding water damage is the first step to preventing long-term problems. This series breaks down the fundamentals — from how water spreads to the different types and risks involved — so you can recognize issues early, act quickly, and make informed decisions about drying and restoration.
It’s designed to give you a solid foundation, whether you’re tackling minor leaks yourself or preparing to bring in professional help.
What Happens When Water Sits Too Long
What Happens When Water Sits Too Long Even a small leak or spill can become a big problem if it isn’t addressed quickly. Water is sneaky — it spreads through floors, walls, and furniture, and it doesn’t always stay where you can see it. The longer it sits, the more damage it can cause, sometimes in ways that aren’t immediately obvious. Why Acting Fast Matters Water doesn’t just sit on the surface. It can seep into porous materials like drywall, carpet, insulation, and wood, where it’s much harder to remove. Once these materials are saturated, the damage can become permanent, leading to costly repairs or replacement. Mold is another big concern. Mold spores can start growing in as little as 24 to 48 hours after water exposure. Even a small leak left unattended can turn into a larger problem that affects your home’s air quality, furniture, and overall safety. Common Problems When Water Sits Too Long When water isn’t removed quickly, homeowners often see issues like: Warping or buckling of hardwood floors and laminate. Peeling paint or wallpaper as moisture loosens adhesives. Musty odors and mold growth that can spread to other areas. Wood rot or structural damage that compromises walls, ceilings, or floors. These problems often start small, but they worsen over time. The longer moisture remains, the more expensive and difficult it becomes to fix. How to Minimize Damage Quickly Even if the water damage is minor, acting fast makes a huge difference. Here’s what you can do right away: Remove standing water immediately using a wet/dry vacuum or mop. Dry affected areas with fans and dehumidifiers to pull moisture out of walls, floors, and furniture. Move furniture and rugs off wet surfaces to prevent staining, warping, or mold growth. Tip: The faster you act, the less you’ll have to replace later. Even small leaks should be taken seriously — prompt action can save both your home and your wallet.
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First 24 Hours After a Leak
The first 24 hours after a water leak are critical. Acting quickly can prevent mold, structural damage, and costly repairs. Learn step-by-step what to do immediately to minimize damage and protect your home.
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Water Loss Series
Water damage can be confusing and stressful, but a clear plan makes all the difference. This series walks you through the essential steps of handling a water loss safely and effectively — from identifying the type of water to choosing the right equipment, using proper safety gear, and monitoring progress until the space is fully dry.
By following these steps, you can protect your home, your health, and ensure the drying process is done right the first time.
Dry It Yourself Water Loss Series Step 5: Monitor and Finish Strong
Now that you’ve completed proper water extraction and set up the right drying equipment, it’s time to track your progress. Monitoring is what confirms whether your DIY water damage drying project is on track or if adjustments are needed. Using a moisture meter helps you measure progress instead of just guessing. Here’s what the next few days should look like for each class of water damage: What Progress Looks Like by Class of Water Damage Day 1 Class 2 (carpet & walls up to 2 ft): Moisture levels usually drop fast with use of a dehumidifier. Carpets are still lightly damp but lighter than after extraction. The dehumidifier will be working at full load, pulling a steady stream of water. Class 3 (ceilings, full wall saturation): Results come slower. Surfaces stay cool and the air feels sticky. Your dehumidifier is running steadily, but comfort levels don’t improve yet. You may also want to consider running multiple dehumidifier’s, see part 3 of this series to consider upping your equipment. Class 4 (hardwoods, plaster, tile, concrete): No major change on day one. Water is still trapped deep in dense materials. Drying fans and dehumidifiers are working, but surfaces feel the same. We recommend contacting a professional restoration company, specifically one who is knowledgeable in using Injectidry systems on harder to dry surfaces. Day 2 Class 2: Carpets feel closer to room temperature, and humidity drops noticeably. Breathing feels easier, and the dehumidifier is pulling less water compared to Day 1. Class 3: Drywall begins warming up. Musty odors start fading, and no new water stains appear. The dehumidifier continues removing a steady amount of moisture. Take measurements daily in multiple places in the affected area and log the progress so you know whether or not to move, add, or remove equipment. Class 4: Surfaces remain clammy. Progress is happening, but it’s slow because materials like hardwood and tile release water at a much slower rate. Day 3 Class 2: Nearly dry. Carpets may feel just slightly cool. Dehumidifier output is much lower now, signaling less moisture in the air. If your moisture meter has a hygrometer setting we recommend using it at the exhaust of the dehumidifier to see if the air coming out of the dehumidifier is close or identical to the same humidity as an unaffected room. Class 3: Noticeable improvements. Odors continue to fade, walls feel warmer, and the air is no longer heavy. Some hidden dampness may still remain inside wall cavities. If you have stubborn moisture you can’t get to behind the wall, selective deconstruction is highly effective, flood cuts are very common and helpful in drying out behind any walls. Class 4: Small progress becomes visible. Hardwood floors may show less cupping, and plaster or tile surfaces feel a little warmer. The drying process is still gradual. The air for the most part will feel back to normal; it's the bound moisture in the materials that will be the fight. Day 4 Class 2: Usually dry by this point. If you still detect dampness, check your air mover placement or add another drying fan to speed things up. Class 3: Surfaces are close to room temperature. Humidity is lower, but most setups need another day or two of continuous water damage restoration equipment running. Monitor your humidity levels and adjust equipment as needed. Class 4: Still a waiting game. Moisture continues releasing from inside dense building materials. Airflow, patience, and steady dehumidification are key. We would recommend getting a professional opinion if you're concerned. Dry it Center offers inspections and can refer you to a professional restoration company if needed. Day 5 Class 2: Typically wrapped up and dry. If moisture readings are still high, adjust placement or extend drying one or two days max. If you’re still dealing with high moisture levels at that point contact our experts and consider having a professional come out. Class 3: Nearly complete. The dehumidifier is pulling very little water, and the walls are almost fully dry. Some hidden dampness may linger behind surfaces. These size of job’s can take a few extra days to fully dry, monitor your humidity levels throughout the process and make sure you're making progress. Class 4: Progress is ongoing, but these materials dry at their own pace. Hardwood, plaster, and concrete may need extended time with drying fans and dehumidifiers until moisture readings confirm full dryness. Even for professionals drying deeply bound materials like hard wood, and tile can take days into weeks. Dry it Center Wrap up. Monitoring is the final step that proves your DIY drying worked. By checking progress daily with a moisture meter and paying attention to humidity levels, you’ll know when it’s safe to remove equipment. All jobs are able to handled successfully with Dry It Center Rentals, we offer a large range of equipment from small air mover’s, to truck mount extractors and Injectidry systems. Larger or more complex jobs (Class 3 and especially Class 4) often need expertise, knowledge, and patience. Either way, we can set you up with the right tools, from air movers and dehumidifiers to moisture meters and specialty drying systems. This post is part of our step-by-step guide to tackling water damage at home. If you missed the other sections, you can catch up here: [Step 1: Identifying the Class of Water Damage] – Learn how to measure the size and scope of your water loss. [Step 2: Understanding Water Categories] – Know what type of water you’re dealing with and how dangerous it can be. [Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment] – Match the right number of air movers, dehumidifiers, and specialty tools to your project. [Step 4: Why PPE Matters] – Protect yourself with proper respirators, gloves, and containment systems. [Step 5: Monitoring Drying Progress (Day 1–5)] – Track moisture levels and know when your space is officially dry. 👉 At the Dry It Yourself Center, we carry everything you’ll need from drying fans and dehumidifiers to PPE and moisture meters and we’ll help you size the equipment for your specific class and category of water damage.
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Dry It Yourself Water Loss Series Step 4: Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
By now, you know two key things: The class of damage tells you how much of the structure is wet. The category of water tells you what’s in that water and how dangerous it may be. The next piece of the puzzle is keeping you safe while you set up drying equipment. That’s where Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) comes in. What you’ll need Depending on the class and category of the water loss, PPE might range from simple gloves and safety glasses to full respirators and protective clothing: Gloves – Nitrile or latex gloves protect against chemicals and contaminated water. Respirator or N95 mask – Critical once you’re dealing with contaminated water, or if mold is suspected. Safety glasses – Keeps eyes safe from droplets, dust, or cleaning agents. Protective Suit– Long sleeves or disposable coveralls if working in “gray” or “black” water. Boots – Waterproof, non-slip boots prevent slips and protect from unseen hazards. 💡 Pro Tip: Don’t assume you’re safe because the water looks clean, bacteria is not visible to the naked eye. Category 1 water can become Category 2 within 24–48 hours. Having the right PPE on from the start means you’re protected no matter what develops. Why this matters Wearing proper PPE isn’t about being cautious. It’s about avoiding setbacks. Without it, you risk: Respiratory problems from mold spores or bacteria. Skin irritation or infection from contaminated water absorption. Eye injuries from debris or chemicals. Slips and cuts in cluttered, wet areas. Focusing on the drying process is important and deserves the attention it needs. But none of that matters if you end up injured or with an illness in the future. PPE ensures you can set up, monitor, and adjust your air movers, dehumidifiers, and specialty drying systems safely. Get the right gear, locally At the Dry It Center, we stock the PPE that matches real-world water damage cleanup needs. Our team can help you: Choose the right respirator rating (N95 vs. half-face vs. full-face). Protective Suits and Gloves. Safety glasses. Set up plastics and zipper walls for containment if you’re drying a high-category or mold-prone loss. That way, your PPE setup lines up with your equipment plan from Step 3 and you’re ready to move forward without missing a beat. 👉 Now that you’re protected with the right PPE, the next step is learning how to monitor your drying process and finish strong. Even the best equipment setup only works if you know how to track progress day by day. This post is part of our step-by-step guide to tackling water damage at home. If you missed the other sections, you can catch up here: [Step 1: Identifying the Class of Water Damage] – Learn how to measure the size and scope of your water loss. [Step 2: Understanding Water Categories] – Know what type of water you’re dealing with and how dangerous it can be. [Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment] – Match the right number of air movers, dehumidifiers, and specialty tools to your project. [Step 4: Why PPE Matters] – Protect yourself with proper respirators, gloves, and containment systems. [Step 5: Monitoring Drying Progress (Day 1–5)] – Track moisture levels and know when your space is officially dry. 👉 At the Dry It Center, we carry everything you’ll need from drying fans and dehumidifiers to PPE and moisture meters and we’ll help you size the equipment for your specific class and category of water damage.
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Dry It Yourself Water Loss Series: Step 3 - Choosing the Right Drying Equipment
In Step 1, we identified the class of water damage (how much is wet).In Step 2, we identified the category of water (what kind of water it is). Now in Step 3, it’s time to match your situation with the right equipment. Even after extraction, building materials hold moisture that needs to be dried. The right combination of air movers (drying fans), dehumidifiers, and sometimes air scrubbers ensures your home dries quickly and safely. Here’s the full series for context: Step 1: Identifying the Class of Water Damage Step 2: Understanding Water Categories Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment (this post) Step 4: Why PPE Matters Step 5: Monitoring Drying Progress (Day 1–5) Why This Step Matters Choosing the wrong drying setup can waste time and money or worse, leave hidden moisture that leads to mold. Too few air movers and water won’t evaporate fast enough. Without dehumidifiers, moisture stays in the air and reabsorbs into walls and flooring. Without air scrubbers in higher-risk jobs, odors and airborne particles can spread. When you come to the Dry It Yourself Center, we’ll ask about the size (class) and category of your water loss. That way, we can recommend the right number of air movers, the right size of dehumidifiers, and whether an air scrubber is needed. What You’ll Need Every drying setup is different, but most DIY projects require: Air movers (drying fans) → push moisture off wet surfaces. Dehumidifiers → pull moisture out of the air. Air scrubbers (optional) → filter out odors, dust, and spores. Extension cords and GFCI protection (for safe setup). We stock all of these at the Dry It Yourself Center, sized for both small and large water losses. Air Movers (Drying Fans) Air movers are the backbone of water damage drying. They force air across wet surfaces, pushing moisture into the air so dehumidifiers can remove it. Rule of thumb: One air mover for every 10–16 linear feet of wall. Placement: Point fans at wet surfaces (walls, baseboards, floors), not into the center of the room. Examples: Small bedroom (10 × 12 ft): ~2–3 air movers. Large living room (20 × 20 ft): ~5–6 air movers. Pro Tip: Watch Your Breakers Running too much drying equipment on one breaker can cause it to trip, shutting everything down without you knowing it. If you set up equipment in a property you can’t stay in, hours (or even a full day) could pass with no drying happening. We recommend connecting no more than 4 air movers to a single 15 amp breaker, especially if you’re also running a dehumidifier on the same circuit. Use extension cords to spread equipment across multiple breakers and keep everything running safely and consistently. Dehumidifiers Dehumidifiers pull water out of the air so surfaces can keep releasing moisture. Without them, air movers just shuffle humidity around. Rule of thumb: One dehumidifier for every 400–600 sq. ft. of wet area. Sizing: Larger losses or humid climates may require multiple units. Examples: Bedroom (120 sq. ft.): 1 dehumidifier. Basement (1,000 sq. ft.): 2 dehumidifiers. Air Scrubbers Air scrubbers aren’t always required, but they help when odors or contaminants are present. They draw in air, pass it through HEPA filters, and return clean air to the space. Use an air scrubber if: You’re dealing with Category 2 or 3 water. Family members have asthma or allergies. You notice strong musty odors. Examples: Bathroom sewage backup: 1 air scrubber in the space. Flooded basement with heavy odor: 1–2 scrubbers depending on size. Why Equipment Sizing Matters Even with the right type of gear, undersizing or oversizing slows the drying process. Undersizing: Surfaces stay wet longer, raising mold risk. Oversizing: Wastes power and can make spaces uncomfortably dry or noisy. That’s why we use both the class of water damage and the category of water to recommend the correct setup. When to Call a Professional For most Class 1 and Class 2, Category 1 losses, DIY equipment rentals are effective. But larger jobs often require more gear than a typical homeowner can set up safely. We recommend calling an IICRC-certified restoration crew if: The water loss is Class 3 or 4 (major saturation or bound moisture). The water is Category 3 (black water). You don’t have safe electrical access for multiple machines. If you’re unsure, bring photos or room measurements to the Dry It Yourself Center. Our team will help size your equipment package and explain how to set it up. What’s Next Now that you know what equipment is needed for drying, the next step is making sure you stay safe while using it. 👉 Continue to Step 4: Why PPE Matters. This post is part of our step-by-step guide to tackling water damage at home. If you missed the other sections, you can catch up here: [Step 1: Identifying the Class of Water Damage] – Learn how to measure the size and scope of your water loss. [Step 2: Understanding Water Categories] – Know what type of water you’re dealing with and how dangerous it can be. [Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment] – Match the right number of air movers, dehumidifiers, and specialty tools to your project. [Step 4: Why PPE Matters] – Protect yourself with proper respirators, gloves, and containment systems. [Step 5: Monitoring Drying Progress (Day 1–5)] – Track moisture levels and know when your space is officially dry. 👉 At the Dry It Yourself Center, we carry everything you’ll need from drying fans and dehumidifiers to PPE and moisture meters and we’ll help you size the equipment for your specific class and category of water damage.
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Dry It Yourself Water Loss Series: Step 2 - Understanding Water Categories
In Step 1, we covered how to identify the class of water damage (Class 1–4). Class describes how much of your home’s structure is wet. In Step 2, we’ll cover water categories; Clean, Gray, and Black. Category describes the quality of the water and how to safely handle contaminated water. Knowing both class and category is critical for safe and effective water damage restoration. Here’s the full series for context: - Step 1: Identifying the Class of Water Damage - Step 2: Understanding Water Categories (this post) - Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment - Step 4: Why PPE Matters - Step 5: Monitoring Drying Progress (Day 1–5) Why This Step Matters Just like the class of damage tells you how much of the structure is wet, the category of water tells you how dangerous that water may be. - A small supply line leak (Category 1 – clean water) is usually safe to handle. - That same size leak from a dishwasher (Category 2 – gray water) may carry contaminants. - And if it’s from a sewer backup (Category 3 – black water), it can be hazardous and often requires a professional. Knowing the category helps protect your health and ensures the right equipment and safety steps are in place. What You’ll Need To identify the category of water damage, you don’t need specialized gear but you do need to confirm the source of the water and how long it has been sitting. For safety: Moisture meter Thermal imaging camera Gloves We carry these tools at the Dry It Yourself Center to make identifying water damage simple and accurate. Category 1 - Clean Water - Source: Broken supply line, sink overflow, refrigerator line, or rainwater that hasn’t passed through soil. - Appearance: Clear, little to no odor. - Risk: Safe at first, but can quickly turn into Category 2 or 3 if left standing. - What to look for: Fresh leaks with no discoloration or smell. Category 2 - Gray Water - Source: Dishwashers, washing machines, toilet bowls (urine only), aquariums, or clean water that’s been stagnant too long. - Appearance: Cloudy, soapy, or has a musty odor. - Risk: Contains contaminants that can cause illness through contact or inhalation. - What to look for: Water pooling near appliances, sour or musty odor, or staining on surfaces. Category 3 - Black Water - Source: Sewage backups, septic overflows, storm or river flooding. - Appearance: Dark, foul-smelling, or sometimes deceptively clear. - Risk: Highly dangerous, can contain bacteria, chemicals, and pathogens. Porous materials it touches often need removal. - What to look for: Floodwater from outside, sewage odors, or any water source you can’t identify. When to Call a Professional We recommend hiring an IICRC-certified water damage restoration crew for Category 3 water and many Category 2 losses. DIY cleanup is possible with Category 1 and some Category 2 situations, but black water is a serious health hazard that requires professional handling. If you’re unsure what type of water you’re dealing with, bring photos or details to the Dry It Yourself Center. Our team will help identify the category and recommend the right protective gear and equipment before you begin. What’s Next Now that you understand the categories of water damage, the next step is knowing what drying equipment you’ll need to safely complete the job. 👉 Continue to Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment. This post is part of our step-by-step guide to tackling water damage at home. If you missed the other sections, you can catch up here: - [Step 1: Identifying the Class of Water Damage] – Learn how to measure the size and scope of your water loss. - [Step 2: Understanding Water Categories] – Know what type of water you’re dealing with and how dangerous it can be. - [Step 3: Choosing the Right Drying Equipment] – Match the right number of air movers, dehumidifiers, and specialty tools to your project. - [Step 4: Why PPE Matters] – Protect yourself with proper respirators, gloves, and containment systems. - [Step 5: Monitoring Drying Progress (Day 1–5)] – Track moisture levels and know when your space is officially dry. 👉 At the Dry It Yourself Center, we carry everything you’ll need from drying fans and dehumidifiers to PPE and moisture meters and we’ll help you size the equipment for your specific class and category of water damage.
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